I’m not the least bit psychic but I’m predicting this will
have a negligible effect on the mechanical watch industry, at least in the over
US$249 end of the market. Maybe it will distract some of the demand for fake
Rolexes. Horophiles are going to see this as a waste of valuable wrist space.
My own feeling is that it is essentially a gadget with a clock for a
screensaver.
Design wise, it’s as slick as we expect from Apple; and if
they were compulsory I would choose the Milanese Loop version with the steel mesh
band – only because I love Milanese bracelets! There is a multiplicity of bands
coming so the chance of finding at least one you do like is high. Claims of a
gold (as in the metal, not just colour!) version amuse me. The universal
attraction of gold is its permanence and incorruptibility, whereas the point of
consumer technology is its inbuilt obsolescence. A dead electronic device
covered in gold is simply a waste of gold. Part of what sent me towards
mechanical watch-making is today’s inverse ratio of technology to quality. The
first mobile phones I had lasted for a couple of contracts and then got passed
around several friends and relatives. But my last four phones, representing
three brands including Apple, have not even lasted the two-year contract before
malfunctioning. Mobile phone companies today are so paranoid we won’t upgrade
every second year they now ensure their products won’t last that long so we are
forced to get another one anyway.
And that is one of the greatest appeals of the mechanical watch
industry: quality. There is a lot of respect commanded by companies that have
existed since the 19th century, and make a product intended to last
for generations. What other industry on earth is dominated by companies that
are 180 or more years old?
The advent of quartz and the proliferation of time-telling
mobile phones has sorted out what the mechanical watch is and isn’t. Anyone who
buys a mechanical watch now does so in the face of everything that today’s
technology offers, which they may well also be indulging in. They choose a
mechanical watch because they want something that is powered by them, not
something that is reliant on an electrical outlet and special cable and some
large corporations’ ongoing permission.
The Apple Watch is not going to waylay the plans of the
person who saves up for years and buys a Patek Philippe; or the person who
wants a family heirloom; or the gift giver who wants to acknowledge a
milestone; or the investor who stores it in a bank vault until it appreciates
enough to sell for a profit; or the person who is enthralled by the microcosm
of interconnected gears and cogs. Nor will it suffice for the person who wants
to impress; and let’s face it, prestige watches are largely bought to impress
others. No one is going to be impressed with an Apple Watch after five minutes
But as I said, I’m not the least bit psychic; and nothing
perplexes me more than the motivations and opinions of the general public. Last
night I passed a massive line of people camped out (tents and all) on the
street in order to buy the new iPhone 6 released today. Now I myself have an
iPhone, iMac and Macbook, but there is no way in hell I would spend even half
an hour on the pavement queuing up for the privilege of buying Apple’s latest
teething problem. So I could well be wrong, but I certainly would be astonished
if this thing significantly affects the mechanical watch-making industry. I
think the various crises of the past have reduced mechanical watch loving
consumers down to a very dedicated population worldwide with enough demand to
support an essentially Switzerland-sized supply.
Milanese Loop
Link Bracelet
Sport White
Benjamin Clymer has some great thoughts at Hodinkee's preview here
A Blog to Watch's review
If you're like me and love a good Milanese bracelet then check out:
IWC's Portofino Chronograph
Breitling's Transocean Day and Date
Breitling's Transocean Chronograph 38
Swatch's Irony Chrono Silverish or Blackie
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